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Temples and Background History:

Angkor Wat
Date: The first-half of the 12^th century (1113-1150).
King: Suryavarman II.
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva).
Art Style: Angkor Wat, Thommanon, Chavsay Tevoda, Banteay Samre.

Angkor means town or city.
Wat means monastery or pagoda.
Angkor Wat was built in the reign of King Suryavarman II, in the early 12^th century for dedicated to the Brahmanic trinity: Vishnu (god of protector), Siva (god of creator and destroyer) and Brahman (god of creator with four faces). Angkor Wat was symbol of the Meru Mountain which was the homage of the god Kings. The main point of Angkor Wat is five peaks and the rampart was surrounded by the moat outside. The rampart was represented the line of the mountain that was surrounding the temple and moat was in stood of the ocean around the mountain outside. If we say about the function of Angkor Wat is the shrine which was enshrined the king's ashes after he had died. Beside this we can call Brahmanist monastery also, because in that time the king or mandarins or people always made the festival of the commemoration or worshipped there too. Angkor Wat has two entrances. The main cause way is at the west side, because it was used when the king had been escorted. Exception the east side, it is the simple way which was transported something like: throne, palanquin, carpet and something else on three days before the king wanted to go there. All the ways were built across the moat and decorated by Naga-Balustrade symbolized of Rain-Bow bridge.

Ta Prohm Kel
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII
Religion: Buddhism (Symbolized of The Hospital)
Art Style: Bayon

Ta Prohm Kel is one temple which was built in the reign of the king Jayavarman VII, for curing the patients and other people are making the prying when they had got the sickness, sadness etc. The main cause way is at east side. It was built at the end of the 12^th century for dedicating to Buddhism.

Phnom Bakhen (Bakheng Hill)
Date: The end of the 9^th century (893-925).
King: Yasovarman I (889-900).
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva)
Art Style: Phnom Krom

Phnom Bakheng is the natural mountain which was built in the reign king Yasovarman I, at the second-half of the 9^th century after he had replaced from the capital Hariharalaya Roluos. On its top has one temple for dedicating to the god king. They like to mount there for looking at the jungles and get the fresh air. When we look at the west side, we can see the west Baray and at the south-east is Angkor Wat temple. Tourists would like to relax at 4:30 O'clock and them taking photo of the sun set. When we look at Angkor Wat, it looks like the golden temple floated on the jungles. There is a foot print of Buddha which was created by Buddhist in the 17^th century, after the Brahman was powerless.

Baksey Chamkrong
Date: The middle of the 10^th
King: Hashavarman I (Completed by Rajeandravaraman I).
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva).
Art Style: Transitional between Bakheng and Koh Ker.

Baksey Chamkrong is one temple which was made of the laterite and brick. It was founded in the early of the 10^th century by the king Hashavaraman I for dedicating to Siva. Nowadays, it has never seen anything, except the statue of Buddha that was placed inside and it has only one opening door at the east side which was decorated by the romantic lintel. As you see Indra is getting on the three heads elephant, and others are false doors.

Angkor Thom (Bayon)
Date: The end of the 12^th century (1177-1230).
King: Jayavarman VII (1181-1220).
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Ta Phrohm, Banteay Kdei, Prah Khan, Ta Som, Srah Srang, Neak Pean.

Angkor Thom is the name of the capital city; it is not the name of the temple. There are many temples inside like: Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of Elephant, Terrace of Leper King, Suor Prat, Phimean Akas, Prah Palilay etc. This the south gate of Angkor Thom. All the entrance gates of Angkor Thom were decorated by Naga-Balustrade with the statues of gods and giants are pulling the serpent that had entwined the mountain of the churning of the Sea of Milk. The gods are symbolized of the good spirit and the giants are symbolized of the bad spirit. All these gates were decorated by the head of Lokesvara, with four faces symbolized of four divined statues of the mind of king like:
      - Loving kindness.
      - Compassion.
      - Sympathy.
      - Equanimity.
Anyways they put the lotus-crown on the head of Lokesvara for expressing of Buddhism. On each corners of the door, we have still seen the sculpture of Indra, is being on the elephant which three heads. After we have passed the door into the city of Angkor Thom, we can see the jungles very loftily, and then we see one temple of Bayon. It was built at the end of 12^th century in the reign of the king Jayavarman VII for dedicating to Buddhism. Bayon was taking building nearly 20 years, so it is why we have still seen the different scenes on the walls of first gallery and second gallery.

Baphuon
Date: The middle of the 11^th century (1050-66).
King: Udayadityavarman II (1050-66).
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva).
Art Style: West Mebon.

Baphuon is a temple situated 200m in distance at the north-west from Bayon. It was built in the middle of the 12^th century in the reign of the king Udayadityavarman II for dedicated to Siva. After we have finished visiting of Bayon, we go on to see Baphuon. We enter at the east entrance and pass through one bridge in 350m length, 2m width and 2m depth with 2m width of the pool symbolized of the moat. Beside this we have still seen one main pool that was taken the water up to clean the statues of the gods. Continuing we can see a damaged part by artillery launched from Siem Reap Stadium in 1973. When we get up on the first level, we always show the spots to photo at the last time. All the people would like to mount there to look around all the jungles and get the fresh air.

The Terrace of the Elephant
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon.

The Terrace of the Elephant is at the east side of the Phimean Akas (sky Palace). It is 350m length, 14m width, 3m height with 3 stairs. The middle stair is very important that was used by the king want to take a look at the game. It was decorated by Garuda supported Naga, symbolized Sky. It was built in the reign of the king Jayavarman VII. On the wall, we see the figures of elephants hunting, not elephants fighting. On the surface of the Terrace, we have still seen the holes for parasol poles that were used when the king wanted to take a look at the game in the time of ceremony.

The Terrace of the Leper King
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism (Symbolized of the crematorium).
Art Style: Bayon.

A double terrace wall at the north end of the terrace of elephants with deeply carved Naga, demons and other mythological beings. The inner wall is an earlier version of the outer wall that was covered at the time the outer wall was added. The inner wall was excavated by French archaeologists in the late 1990s. The terrace was named for the statue of the "Leper King "that site on top. Why the statue is known as the "Leper King" is a matter of debate. Some argue that when the statue was found, its lichen-eaten condition gave it the appearance of leprosy. Other has argued that it is a statue of the leper king of the Khmer legend, or that the condition of the statue inspired its connection to the legend. The model for the statue is also a matter of debate. Suggestions include a couple of different Hindu gods, and the Khmer kings Yasovarman I and Jayavarman VII. Recent scholarship favors a combination of Jayavarman VII and Buddha. The statue of the leper king on display at the terrace is a replica. The original resides in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

Phimean Akas
Date: The end of the 10^th century.
King: Jayavarman V, Udayadityavaraman I.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Khleang

Why it was called Phimean Akas? Of course, it was symbolized of the Sky Palace. It mean, all of the king had promoted themselves like the god king's sons. As you see the step was ornamented by Garuda symbolized of the Sky Palace. The king's palace was environed by the wall made of laterite with 600m length, 300m width and 5m height. There are five gates. The east gate is very important way that the kings and ministers or people enter and come out. Except the north gate, it was used to transport everything through by this one. There are two pools inside; one is for male and another for female. Now we can't see any vestige of palace, because it was damaged by Siamese (Thai), who encroached in Cambodia in 1431. Was

Prah Palilay
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Angkor Wat.

Prah Palilay is the name of the following of Buddhist, but it is also the name of the temple. It was built in the reign of the king Jayavarman VII, at the end of the 12^th century, for dedicating to Buddhism. It was the sanctuary that the Buddhist and king Jayavarman VII himself had come and prayed here when they had got some trouble problems. Nowadays, we have still seen only one gate in the east side. On the lintel and frontage, we can see the picture of Buddha who was preaching to the congregations. Below part is the picture of the dead of Buddha.

Sour Prat
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon.

The twelve towers were used to keep the sacred statues for praying, and then they towed the long cord by the pole for dancing across. It was very pleasant for the audiences who had come to join in the ceremony, but another idea said that these 12 towers were kept the 12 women that were taken out of the eyes in the Khmer famous legend story (Chao Putte-sen Neang Kangrey).

Thommanon
Date: The end of the 11^th century.
King: Suryavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Angkor Wat.

Thommanon is a sanctuary which was used for praying before they begin to build all the temples. It mean, first we can see a library that located at the north-east of the central tower. What are the east gate and west gate? They are the gates for the king or people enter and come out. As you see it is the same style of Angkor Wat. Especially, the inscription on the wall made us knowing clearly about its date of the 12^th century by the king Suryavarman II. Now, we still seen only the lintel which was attractive the tourists taking photo. That is the picture of Vishnu riding on the Garuda towed by the god and goddess.

Chavsay Tevoda
Date: The end of the 11^th century and the first-half of the 12^th century.
King: Suryavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Angkor Wat.

This temple is very ruinous. It was built in the reign of the king Suryavarman II. It has two libraries and four gates, but they are not so good construction. We can't see any statue inside, except of the pictures of Apsara on the wall. The east gate is liked by the bridge; probably it was used to go to the river side to taking the water to having a bath and clean the statues. It was built in the same time of Thommanon temple (Suryavarman II).

Ta Keo
Date: The end of the 10^th century.
King: Jayavarman V, (Suryavarman I).
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Khleang.

Ta Keo is a temple which was symbolized of the mountain Meru. It was built in the second-half of the 10^th century in the reign of the king Jayavarman V. It means, as it had been built, there was one miracle of lighting, and then the construction was stopped. It was dedicated to Siva, because we can see one sacred bull on the east side. Ta Keo is very good shape and best quality stones, and then it had been abandoned up to now and none people arranged ceremony here. There is nothing on top, but tourists would like to climb up for taking photo and see a view of jungles.

Ta Prohm
Date: The middle of the 12^th century, the first of the 13^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism (Dedicated to the Royal Mother of King).
Art Style: Bayon.

A Buddhist temple built by King Jayavarman VII in the middle of the 12th to the early 13th century, Ta Phrom is well worth an extended exploration of its dark corridors and open plazas. Flocks of noisy parrots flit from tree to tree adding to the jungle atmosphere. Ta Prohm is only rivaled by Beng Melea in terms of recreating the experience of the early explorers who are discovered Angkor. Its structure is being steadily subsumed by trees, making it very photogenic. Ta Prohm is in better condition than Beng Melea, has superior carvings and is far easier to visit. In its prime, Ta Prohm boasted a fabulous wealth of precious stones and gold and controlled the activities of 1000 of villages. It was built to dedicate to his mother.

Banteay Kdey
Date: The end of the 12^th -early 13^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon, Angkor Wat.

It was built in the reign of the King Jayavarman VII, at the end if the 12^th century (1181). It is the first Buddhist Monastery of all the temples. There is nothing inside, except the carving of the gods and goddesses of the walls and the columns. One statue of Buddha had been seeing in the east entrance. If we look around, we see all of the carvings everywhere with the frieze from low to high. It was the carving of Buddha, but this carving was damaged by Brahmanist in the first-half of the 13^th century. After we have passed the first gate, we have still seen one library on the right side of the causeway, and then we see the dancing hall that was decorated with Apsaras who were dancing on the lotus flowers that revealed about Buddhism. Other parts are good construction.

Srah Srang
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon.

Srah Srang is very interesting pool. It is at the east side of Banteay Kdey. This pool was dug in the reign of the former king, but it wasn't finished yet. So in 1181 the king Jayavarman VII had finished. It is why many documents had often written that it is belong to the king Jayavarman VII. The pool's size is 800m length, 400m width. In the middle of this pool, there is one small temple (the floating temple). Nowadays, we have still seen the terrace for the king having a seat there, before the king gets down to take a bath in the pool and maybe the court ladies massaged him. The king's bathing was clean the sin. Beside this Srah Srang is very useful irrigation for the cultivators who had lived around it. It means, they drained the water out from this pool to growing rice.

Pre Rup
Date: The half of the 10th century (947-65).
King: Rajendravarman II(944-68)
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: East Mebon

It was built in the reign of the king Rajendravarman II, in the second-half of the 10^th century (962) for dedicating to Brahman trinity gods. This temple situated at the south side of east mebon. This temple was made of laterite and sand-stone. The first we see five Stupas (shrines), the second level we have still seen the crematorium and libraries are on each side. If we turn right, we see a place that was used for the ash-cleaning after the death had been cremated. Nearby we still have seen an inscribed stele in the shelter. The third level, there are 12 small towers that were enshrined the ashes of ministers or king's selection. The fourth level, we see five towers that were symbolized of the god king's house.

East Mebon
Date: The second of the 10^th century.
King: Rajendravarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Pre Rup.

It is a large temple-mountain like ruin, rising three levels and crowned by five towers. Jayavarman IV a usurper to the throne moved the capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD. 16 years later Rajendravarman II returned the capital to Angkor and shortly thereafter constructed East Mebon on an island in the middle of the now dry Eastern Baray. The temple is dedicated to Siva in honor of the king's parents. Inscriptions indicate that it was also built to help reestablish the continuity of kingship at Angkor in light of the interruption that occurred when the seat of power had been moved to Koh Ker. There seems to be some scholarly debate as to whether Eas Mebon should be categorized as a temple-mountain.

Ta Som
Date: The end of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism (Dedicated to the Royal Father of King).
Art Style: Bayon.

It is small, classic Bayon Style monastic complex consisting of a relatively flat enclosure, face tower gopuras and cruciform interior sanctuaries much like a miniature version of Ta Prohm. Many of the carving are in good condition and display particularly fine execution for late 12^th century works. Take not of the devada carving which show an uncommon individuality. A huge tree grown from the top of the eastern gopura. It is destroying the gate but it is a photo classic. Best photographed in the afternoon. Ta Som is the most distant temple on the grand circuit.

Neak Pean
Date: The second of the 12^th century.
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon.

The small island temple located in the middle of the last Baray to be constructed by a Khmer king in Angkor area. The central temple sits at the axis of a cross or lotus pattern of eight pools. Originally known as Rajasri, Neak Pean took its modern appellation, which means 'coiled serpents' from the encoiled nagas that encircled the temple. The temple is faced by a statue of the horse, Balaha, saving drowning sailors. Though originally dedicated to Buddha, Neak Pean contains several Hindu images. Neak Pean may have served an absolution function, and the waters were thought to have healing properties. During the dry season where the water is low, check out the animal and human headwater spouts at the outside center of each pool. Neak Pean is most photogenic in the wet season when the pools are full.

Prah Khan
Date: The second-half of the 12^th century (1151).
King: Jayavarman VII.
Religion: Buddhism.
Art Style: Bayon.

Note: The traverse of the monument can be made in totality either from east to west or inversely. Send your vehicle to meet you at the gate opposite to your entry, or if you only have a little time, straight to the north gate. The three are to be found on the Grand Circuit, the way leading to the east gate (route Fombertaux) is just a little after the 9km marker stone, to the north gate after the 8km stone, and to the west gate at 7km.

The large ensemble of Prah Khan, forming a rectangle of 700m by 800 surrounded by moats, covers an area of 56 hectares. It is like Ta Prohm with which it has many analogies, an example typical of the formula adopted by Jayavarman VII; all the elements of a vast composition compressed into a relatively small space (the third enclosure contains all of its building in only 175m by 200m), the transformation of an elegant initial plan into a veritable architectural chaos by the multiplication of additional buildings placed at random - all then enclosed within a vast habitation zone that was probably covered with timber houses.

Prasat Kravan
Date: The first quarter of the 10^th century (921)
King: Harshavarman I.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Transitional from Bakong to Koh Ker.

Returning towards Siem Reap by small circuit, one sees, to the left between the 12^th and 13^th kilometer marker stones, a line of five crumbing brick towers set at an angle to the road. One should not hesitate to stop here, since within their barren exterior they hide a phenomenon unique in the art of Angkor; -sculpture in the brickwork of the sanctuary interiors.


Surrounded by a moat, which is closed in its north-western corner by a small access causeway, these towers are set quite close, built on a single terrace and open to the east-though the absence of any access stairway to the very high three holds is surprising. Their state of ruin has been caused mainly by the presence of several large trees, whose roots have disintegrated the brickwork.

Banteay Srey
Date: The second half of the 10^th century (967)
King: Rajendravrman II and Jayavarman V.
Religion: Hindu (Siva).
Art Style: Bateay Srey.

The miniature temple of Banteay Srey is located 25km north-east of the Bayon as the crow flies, not far from the right bank of the stung (river) Siem Reap, the river that descends from the Phnom Kulen to flow into the Tonle Sap. Situated in the middle of the forest, small in scale and in a region lacking in archaeological remains, one can understand why it escaped general attention for so long-its discovery by lieutenant Mare, an officer in the geographic service, was in fact only made in 1914. It was not cleared until 1924, following the theft and ensuing scandal the previous year of some important stone. These were eventually and restored to their original positions during the course of restoration work.

It was built in the 10th century, this temple was constructed by a Brahmin counselor under the powerful King Rajendravarman and then later under Jayavarman V. It displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art. The walls are densely covered with some of the most beautiful, deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The temple itself is small in size and was carved out of pink sandstone.

The temple is presented to the east with a cruciform laterite gopura. This is flanked by two small side doors and probably corresponded to an external enclosure (fourth enclosure) formed as a timber palisade. The eastern door, with its sandstone pillars, the fine ornament of its pilasters and the fronton of Indra on a three headed elephant, give a taste of the internal decoration to come-and of the beautiful rose tint of the stone. The location of the beams which carried the tiled roof still remains visible in the masonry.

Banteay Samre
Date: The half of the 12^th century.
King: Suryavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Angkor Wat.

A visit to Banteay Samre can be combined with an excursion to Banteay Srey, which it should precede if possible. The whole trip takes perhaps half a day and is best made in the morning. Large, comparatively flat temple displaying distinctively Angkor Wat style architecture and artistry. The temple underwent extensive restoration this century by archaeologists using the anastylosis method. Banteay Samre was constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat. The style of the towers and balustrades bear strong resemblance to the towers of Angkor Wat and even more so to Khmer temple of Phimai in Thai land. Many of the carvings are in excellent condition. Banteay Samre id a bit off the grand circuit, near the south-east corner of the East Baray. The trip there is a nice little 3km road excursion through villages and paddies.

Baray (West Mebon)
Date: The half of the 11^th century.
King: Udadityavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Baphuon.

Leaving from Siem Reap by Route N^o 6 in the direction of the Svay-Sisophon towards the north-west, a branch in the road to the right after 12km, leading north, takes one in 500m to the south-west corner of the western Baray. The view on arriving at this vast artificial take is superb, particularly at the end of the day. The entire expanse of water is contained within a level of earth which forms a dike, shaded by large tree and with the forest of Angkor as its backdrop-set against which is the verdant foliage of the western Mebon at its centre, with Phnom Bakheng off to the right. In the distance, Phnom Bok stands out in silhouette from the long line of the Kulen hills which bar the horizon. At sunset the whole is colored in sweet pastel tones.

The baray form a vast rectangle of 8km by 2. At its present level, the water only covers its western two thirds with, in places, depths of 4 and 5m-the remainder having been turned to rice fields. The water is quite clear, and the gently sloping sandy bottom allows very pleasant batting - though one should always beware of the weeds that sometime grow at some distance from the bank. Previously filled only by the rains, it is now, since the construction of a barrage on the Stung Siem Reap not far from the temple of Ta Nei, replenished by a system of channels which make use of the north and part of the west moats of Angkor Thom.

To judge by the small temple of the western Mebon which marked the center-in the same style as the Baphuon-the baray must have been realized in the 11^th century, with its eastern dike corresponding to the western limit of "Yasodharapura", the first Angkor centered on Phnom Bakheng. It is to the west of Angkor Thom; the replica of the eastern Baray that is similar in size and was excavated to the east of the capital toward the end of the 9^th century, during the reign of Yasovarman.

Phnom Krom
Date: The end of the 9^th-early 10^thcentury.
King: Yashavarman I.
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to the trinity gods: Vishnu, Siva and Brahma).
Art Style: Phnom Bakheng.

At Phnom Bakheng we have seen how king Yasovarman crowned each of the three Angkor peaks with a temple, thereby dominating the surrounding plain. This trio included-apart from the "Central Mountain"-Phnom Krom on the shores of the Tonle Sap, 16km south-west as the crow flies and 137m in the height, and Phnom Bok, 14km to the north-east in the middle of an area of rice fields. Of the three monuments, the temple of Phnom Krom remains the most complete in silhouette, with only the top tier on its northern and southern towers and the two top tiers on its central sanctuary missing. It is also the most threatened with destruction by the wind storms blowing in from the Tonle Sap on to its walls, built as they are in a friable and porous sandstone that has a tendency to exfoliate, and that consequently have retained but a few traces of decoration on their facing.

The climbing from Phnom Krom would perhaps not impose by its archaeological interest alone, but the pleasure of the walk is such and the panorama of the Great Lake with the surrounding plain so extensive and tranquil that we have no hesitation in recommending it-and with preference at the end of the day. It is, with the western baray, truly relaxing after the effort inherent in a visit to the monuments. From the top, if one is able to ignore the quite regrettable presence of the unsightly pagoda and the military buildings recently established in the south-west corner of the monument, the view extends without obstruction to the far horizon, taking in, when the waters are high, and the vast surface of the surrounding flood-lands. Towards the south, the clusters of straw huts easily dismantle to the follow the rising water line-to establish themselves for part of the year at the foot of the hill and for the rest at the far end of the dike road, forming the lakeside village during the fishing season.

Bakong
Date: The end of the 9^th century (881).
King: Indravarman I.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Prah Ko.

Bakong is to be found down a sandy track, at about 1500m from Route#6. The turning is indicated by a signpost 16km from Siem Reap in the direction to Phnom Penh. The track initially approaches from the north on the same axis as the central sanctuary, which reveals itself at the far end, to then skirt the north-east quarter for the monument's second enclosure and lead to the end of the eastern causeway, just before the remains of the second gopura. In its pyramidal form-the third after the restrained attempts at Ak Yom to the north-west of Siem Reap and Rong Chen on Phnom Kulen-Bakong presents itself as having been the main temple of Hariharalaya, where the cult of the god king was practiced. Here the idol could be elevated in dignity above the plains bordering the great lake, and here the Khmer royalty came to affirm itself-indeed it is not impossible that the construction of this "temple-mountain" was initiated by Jayavarman II on his descent from the Kulen Hills.

All of the temple on stepped terraces of the Angkor region, Bakong is perhaps the one which most closely responds to the idea of the cosmic Mount Meru on five levels, corresponding, from bottom to top respectively, to the world of the Nagas, the Garudas, the Rakshasas, the Yakshas, and then to the Maharajas of the four cardinal points with their court. In the proportion of its tiers, it is the only pyramid that makes allowance for processions and festivals, and being more human in scale than the usual "stairway to heaven", it also responds the best to our western principles. Finally it is also the first realization in sandstone of a large architectural ensemble, a fact indicated by the founder himself-the king Indravarman-who called it "the stone house of Isa'.

Prah Ko
Date: The end of the 9^th century (879).
King: Indravarman I (875-93).
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva).
Art Style: Bakong.

Prah Ko, the funerary temple of Jayavarman II and of the ancestors of his second successor, Indravarman, is to be found just to west of the track leading to Bakong, at 500m south of Route#6. Sited in the eastern part of the vast square of 500m east-west by 400m north-south formed by its moats, its buildings were perhaps but a complement to a temple-mountain project which was superseded by the pyramid of Bakong, or else to some light-weight construction, long since disappeared, that was part of the city of Hariharalaya, the capital of Indravarman-perhaps for example an ancient royal residence, as Mr. Coedes suggested.

Lo Ley
Date: The end of the 9^th century (893)
King: Yasovarman I.
Religion: Hindu (Dedicated to Siva).
Art Style: Bakong, Prah Ko.

The temple of Lo Ley is situated on the northern continuation of the track to Bakong, at 500m north of Route#6. Its access track is taken therefore towards the north-west, on the left of the road from Siem Reap, just beyond the 16km marker stone and 400m after the track to Bakong. The turning is marked by a sign, at which one crosses 600m of rice fields on a dike that is usually passable by car. Lo Ley is comparable in situation to the Mebon of the eastern baray, forming an island in the middle of the Indratataka-a large reservoir of 3800m east-west by 800 north-south -whose excavation started, so the inscriptions tell us, five days after the consecration of Indravarman I, in order to provide the capital city (Hariharalaya) with water and to irrigate the surrounding plains. The stele explains that the temple was dedicated to Indravarmesvara in memory of Yasovarman's father-it constituted, according to Mr. Coedes, the foundation charter of a series of identical hermitages, all with the name Yasodharasrama, which were constructed by order of the king in the year of his accession.

Kbal Spean
Date: The 11^th - 13^th century.
King:
Religion: Hindu/Buddhist.
Art Style:

Kbal Spean literally means "the head of the river." This is one of the two rivers of a thousand lingas, made up of unique lingas and linga stands chiseled into the riverbed of the Siem Reap River. It was believed that the lingas spiritually "fertilized" the water that fed the eastern Baray and irrigated the rice fields below. Another river of a thousand lingas is at Phnom Kulen. Kbal Spean is commonly known as the Valley of a 1000 lingas and is set deep in the jungle 15km from Banteay Srey.

You will walk 50mn, to take you to the river and waterfall where innumerable stone phalluses are carved on the riverbed. These were fertility symbols designed to bless the waters. This Hindu pilgrimage site predates the Angkor temples by some 200 years, making it the most ancient site in the region. Kbal Spean is well maintained and the way marked trail is easy to follow. Though the path is steep, with steps in some places, the waterfall near the top is a nice place to relax and cool down. There is abundant wild-life, particularly butter-flies, to enhance the visit. The rainy season is the best time to see Kbal Spean when the river is full and flowing freely.

Phnom Kulen
Date: The 9^th century.
King: Jayavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Kulen.

This is where the 500-year Angkorian period began. Built in the 9th century by the Hindu King Jayavarman II, it is a mountain on which he initiated the "God-King" linga. He soon moved his capital to the region referred to as the Roluos Group, several sites including hundreds of linga stands in the Siem Reap River. The site of Phnom Kulen also has waterfalls and an active pagoda.

Phnom Kulen is widely regarded as the birth-place of the ancient Khmer Empire. It is 50km from Siem Reap, this hill-top site has the country's largest reclining Buddha and it was here in 802A.D. that king Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java. Khmer Rouge activity in this area has rendered Phnom Kulen inaccessible in the part, but it is now very safe to visit. Roads conditions are still poor in the rainy season, but this is ironically, also the best season to see the falls in their full glory. Cutting through the area is the river of 1000 lingas. Just 10cm under the water's surface are 1000 small carvings etched larger blocks of stone are carved with Apsaras, Vishnu representation and other figures.

Beng Melea
Date: The early 11^th century.
King: Suryavarman II.
Religion: Hindu.
Art Style: Angkor Wat.

Built in the early 11th century by the Hindu King Suryavarman II, this sprawling temple is largely overrun by the returning jungle. Constructed in the distinct style of Angkor Wat, Beng Melea preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts. Very few carvings or bas-reliefs are evident and may never have existed. When the temple was active, the walls may have been painted or covered with frescoes. In its time, Beng Melea was at the crossroads of several major highways that ran to Angkor Wat, Koh Ker, Preah Vihear (in northern Cambodia) and northern Vietnam. Beng Melea is located 75km east of town and requires a two and a half hour journey to reach.

Beng Melea even beats Ta Prohm for ambience and it receives far fewer tourists on account of its remote location. Its layout and style closely mirror that of Angkor Wat, but here it is the rich, green jungle and the lichen-covered stones that dominate. Beng Melea is tangle of trees, towers and vines and has several moody subterranian passageways to explore. Ivy has snake its way over the bodies of Apsara dancer and richly-carved lintels lie strewn in the undergrowth. Fallen block work near the collapsed central tower forces the visitors to scramble over much of the site. For any would be Indiana Joneses Beng Melea is a must.

Tonle Sap Lake

Tonlé Sap Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world, cyclically swelling from 2700km² in the dry season to 16000km² during the monsoon. Floating fishing villages dot the semi-submerged forest that line the rim of the lake, offering an excellent place to see lakeside rural Cambodia and a unique ecosystem rich with birds and other wildlife. Boat trips through these areas run for two hours. The lake is 35 minutes south of Siem Reap.